The kings of Texas BBQ
- Published May 31, 2008
- Life
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I got the newest issue of Texas Monthly in the mail a few days ago and haven’t stopped salivating since. Why? Because it’s the barbecue issue, with their rundown of the 50 best barbecue joints in the state. (Between this list and their list of the 63 tacos you must eat before you die, I’ve got my work cut out for me.)
Topping their list is a place called Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, a small town about 50 miles east of Austin. These guys are only open on Saturdays from 8:00am to whenever the meat runs out, which is usually around noon. Now that’s what you call serious devotion! (I’ve never had barbecue at 8:00 in the morning, but I bet it’s good. Heck, it’s probably the best breakfast you’ll ever have.)
In the top 5 are perennial favorites, rival siblings Kreuz Market and Smitty’s, both in Lockhart. Both of these places epitomize the soul of real Texas barbecue. In short, it’s all about the meat, specifically brisket and sausage. The meat should always be good enough to stand on its own without the help of sauce, and in fact, at Kreuz you can’t even get sauce (you can at Smitty’s upon request, but why would you want to?). It should also be unpretentious; no fancy presentation or French-sounding adjectives, just some butcher paper and lots of napkins, with an ice-cold Shiner Bock to wash it down with.
Texas barbecue–real Texas barbecue, not the “Texas-style” stuff you find beyond the borders–is a modern-day amalgamation of the state’s proud cattle industry and the rich German and Czech heritage so prevalent in central Texas and throughout the Hill Country. Together with Tex-Mex, these two styles of food accurately represent what it means to be a true Texan.
We made a pilgrimage to Kreuz Market a few years ago while visiting the Hill Country, and I can still taste it. We didn’t get to Smitty’s, but I know we’ll be back. Another one of my all-time favorites is Ruby’s on Guadalupe in Austin. Their all-natural brisket is juicy and smoky, and the sausage is perfect.
So, wait… when do we leave?
I love the title of this Radar article:
62. Hold a baby.
How excited am I about SP3 for Windows XP? Probably about as excited as you are about it.




